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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end venues. However, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.